Calantha Flooring August 03rd, 2017 - 20:31:11
Traditional tile installation requires many tools and lots of patience which have to be pre-set on the floor, cut down to size, then adhered to the floor using a strong industrial glue. They will not stick to every surface and frequently, a layer of floor base must be installed before the tiling work can begin. If the tiles are placed too close together, they can buckle, leaving unsightly bumps and lumps on the floor. If they are placed too far apart, there will be obvious gaps. If a mistake is made when laying down the tile, it is very difficult to fix as the tile is glued to the floor. The tile will have to be pried up, excess adhesive scraped, and the process started over. Laying traditional tile floors is a project that can take several days, to several weeks, to finish.
There are three main types of sub-flooring installed to cover and span the floor structure. It is over this that the finished floor will be placed. The sub-flooring types include raw sheathing, interlocking and strip. It is utilized not only to provide a surface for the interior finishes to be placed on, but also to prevent twisting or torque forces placed on the building. The sub-floor also allows load sharing within the joist framing system. Often the sub-flooring is glued to the joist work to eliminate creaking floors and to prevent the floor joists from turning.
Hardwood flooring is often a generic term that could apply to any type of wood flooring. Hardwood trees (oak, maple, cherry, walnut, elm, chestnut) are generally trees that had leaves which fall off in the winter. Softwood trees (pine, fir) have needles that may stay on all year and usually they produce cones. Hardwoods are usually more dense and more durable than softwoods. Of course, there are exceptions to these generalities. In our product line the hardwoods cost more than the softwoods.
Did you see a picture that you like and now you have the bug that you want that special floor? The good news is that it could probably be made for you, but before you go a long ways down the path of choosing which floor you want and requesting a display room full of samples, ask about some price ranges. There is a common misconception that since reclaimed wood is supposedly salvaged it should be cheaper than virgin wood floors. If you are buying a quality kiln dried and precision milled product, generally that is not the case. The only cost savings would be if you found some scraps or did some salvage work yourself, you might save some costs. For example you might find a gym floor or planks out of a barn hay loft that you want to nail down on your floor. The material might have been next to free, but how much time are you going to have in making it usable and pulling nails? Are the results what you want?